Long before Julian became known for mountain wines and apple-infused vintages, Jim Hart was already immersed in California winemaking history through his family’s pioneering role in Temecula wine country.
“Hart Winery was one of the pioneers of the entire valley,” Hart says of the legendary family winery founded by his parents in Temecula during the region’s earliest days.
Winemaking, however, wasn’t simply inherited — it was refined through years of education, mentorship, and hands-on experience. Hart initially learned the craft from his father before completing the Winemaker Certificate Program through the University of California, Davis, when he became head winemaker in 2007.
“I also learned a lot from other Temecula winemakers,” Hart explains, crediting respected industry figures including Jon McPherson, Javier Flores, and David Vergari. His father also studied through UC Davis extension courses during the early years of Hart Winery.
Childhood Memories of Ramona’s Vineyards
Hart’s connection to San Diego County’s backcountry stretches back decades before he and his family purchased what would become Volcan Mountain Winery.
“When we were kids, we’d go through Ramona all the time, often on our way to the desert or Laguna Mountains,” he recalls.
He remembers a very different Ballena Valley landscape than visitors see today — one filled with vineyards and roadside agricultural stands. Hart specifically recalls the old grape-growing days near what is now Scenic Valley Ranch Vineyards.
“The Ballena Valley had much more vineyard then,” he says. “My dad said they were table grapes.”
One childhood memory still stands out vividly: a small roadside stand where an older couple sold fresh grape juice to travelers heading through the valley.
Rebuilding from the Ground Up
In 2015, Jim and his brother purchased J.Jenkins Winery from founders Jim and Jeanne Jenkins, transforming it into today’s Volcan Mountain Winery.
The transition was bittersweet. Jim Jenkins had been battling cancer for several years before the sale and passed away shortly afterward.
“As a result, he had very little inventory,” Hart explains. “We basically inherited one barrel of Pinot Noir and a little bit of Apple Port-style wine.”
The winery had to rebuild almost entirely from scratch. During the early years, the Harts transported wines from their Temecula operation to Julian while waiting for their first Volcan Mountain vintage in 2015.
Despite the challenges, Hart says the biggest adjustment between Temecula and Julian wasn’t the production side — it was the customers.
“Temecula, or at least Hart Winery, attracted more knowledgeable wine consumers,” he says. “We get a lot more tourist traffic in Julian, so it’s sometimes harder to sell unknown varietals. But we have a knowledgeable staff. Once they educate people and they like the wine, they’ll buy it.”
Mountain Grapes and Apple Wines
The winery’s estate vineyard remains small, still planted primarily with the Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris vines established by Jim Jenkins years ago.
“Both do well up there,” Hart says, “but the vineyard is so small, we don’t make much wine from them.”
Today, Volcan Mountain sources many of its grapes from respected local growers, including Don Armstrong in Palmer Valley, Emerald Creek, and several smaller vineyards in the Ramona area. Additional white grapes are sourced from Temecula vineyards.
Apples, of course, remain an important part of the winery’s identity in Julian’s famous apple-growing region. The winery continues to sell apples to Raging Cider & Mead and has previously worked with Nickel Beer Company.
Many longtime customers still remember Volcan Mountain’s sparkling apple wine fondly.
“We haven’t made the sparkling apple wine in several years,” Hart explains. The carbonation process previously relied on equipment at another Temecula winery that has since changed ownership.
Still, apple lovers aren’t out of luck; Volcan Mountain continues producing both a sweet apple wine and its popular apple port-style wine.
A Family Tradition Continues
Nephew, Ryan, is helping carry the family’s multi-generational wine legacy forward.
In addition to operating the winery, Hart also taught winemaking classes at MiraCosta College for years.
“That program has since been eliminated, unfortunately,” he says. “I loved teaching those classes, and I like to think I influenced quite a few people who now have wineries of their own.”
As for the future of Volcan Mountain Winery, Hart remains content focusing on the winery’s steady growth and loyal following rather than chasing massive expansion.
“No big plans beyond what we’re already doing in Volcan,” he says.
While expanding the vineyard could be tempting, Hart laughs off the possibility.
“If I were younger, I’d plant more vineyards, but I’m not,” he jokes.
And perhaps that quiet confidence is exactly what makes the winery feel so authentic: a family-run operation rooted in history, shaped by resilience, and still deeply connected to the mountain community it now calls home.